Castles, nuraghes and churches
Chiara e Simone
A journey made for the pleasure of discovering new and evocative places, without being chased by haste or by the anxiety of always having to see more. It is the journey in which the soul finally finds peace and rest, cradled by the wide spaces of this wonderful land, and is nourished by tasting its culture, history and beauty. And it is nourished by tasting its culture, history, and beauty.
Sadali, Laconi, Nuragus, Gergei
Sadali, the enchanted cave of Is Janas
We are in Sadali, in the heart of Barbagia di Seulo. Here we visited the Is Janas cave (the Fairies’ Cave) It can be reached by walking through a beautiful pine forest, whose tall branches filter the sunlight. Here we are at the entrance of the cave, a narrow passage that descends into the hollow depths of the earth. Bending forward, we enter the dark cave.
Suddenly, we find ourselves in a place where absolute darkness reigned for millions of years, silently witnessing the slow work of water as it sculpted extraordinary formations of calcite. Breath shortens, heart racing, and hands unexpectedly warm in the chill. I am experiencing extraordinary emotions in an extraordinary place. I am experiencing extraordinary emotions in an extraordinary place.
Emerging into the sunlight, I carry with me the memory of three fairies, glimpsed, it seems, in the last chamber, peeking out from a deep fissure in the rock. They smiled.
Sadali, beneath the Waterfall in the Village of Love
After visiting the cave, we decide to explore Sadali, known as the “village of love,” both for the presence of the Church of San Valentino and, above all, for the incredible waterfall of the same name at the heart of the village. The water plunges powerfully into a chasm called “sa bucca manna”, creating a truly spectacular sight. The bright green moss, soaked by the falling water, and the roar of the cascade fill the otherwise peaceful air, making it an unforgettable experience. Here, of course, we couldn’t resist taking selfies to share with our friends, nor did we skip the “ritual” of placing our heart-shaped object alongside all the others on a wall near the waterfall, where everyone leaves a message of love for their beloved.
A short distance away, right next to the waterfall, stands one of the mills that, during the feudal era, was powered by water. It takes us back in time, to when soldiers on horseback with their shining armor would pass through these streets among farmers and shepherds.
Laconi, Parco Aymerich – A Timeless Place
Here, in the early hours of the morning, all is peace. The park, still deserted, returns the sounds of nature: a bird’s cheerful song, the caw of a crow, the buzz of bees busy on a white flower whose name I do not know. From a window of the ancient castle, I gaze upon a breathtaking landscape and lose myself in thought. Before me lies the forest and its mysteries. I wonder… how many eyes have admired this same view over the centuries? I imagine a woman draped in gold, dreaming of the world beyond the mountains. What might she be thinking… of an impossible love, a distant land, an adventurous journey?
But then the daily sounds of the castle bring her back to reality: the clatter of horses’ hooves, the shouts of the watchman, the rhythmic hammering of the blacksmith… This window will stay in my heart, and I wonder how many hearts, like mine, it has captivated.
Nuragus, free in a golden field.
We arrive in Nuragus in the height of the afternoon, the sun’s rays sparing no living creature. Trees, bushes, and plants gather together, casting shade upon themselves. A few rare clouds drift across the sky, wispy and sparse. The fields are golden; the harvest has already taken place, and the wild spring grasses have turned yellow, releasing seeds that will grow into green plants next season.
Nothing would suggest that the solitary nuraghe, built over there on the hill—not far from the road, yet not too close—could exert such a strong and irresistible pull on me.
Following an imagined path through the fields, perhaps traced by humans, perhaps by animals. I reach the base of the nuraghe. I touch these ancient stones, warmed by the sun, and am spellbound by the landscape. Around me lies the pure essence of Sardinia. Golden fields grazed by flocks, the distant line of mountains fading into the blue sky, a road cutting across the fields that has never known traffic. A friendly wind from the southeast tousles my hair and lifts my skirt; warm and gentle, it welcomes me and sweeps away all troubling thoughts.
I think of this nuraghe, a silent witness to seasons repeated for millennia. I understand now why this place has drawn me in, why here I feel welcomed in a land that, in a distant time, was home, family, love.
Gergei, the dimension of the sacred
I was captivated by this ancient church, the Church of San Vito Martire. It’s strange to think that these old blocks of white stone, almost reflecting the sunlight, have stood here for over 700 years. Who knows how many joys, how many sorrows, what emotions the men and women united by faith in God, yesterday as today, have experienced within these walls. Today, I turn to Him, to the Saint who dwells in this church, asking Him to illuminate my path with the light of a faith that sometimes seems to falter under the pressures of modern life and the daily rush.
Qui ho ritrovato il piacere di riflettere su me stessa, di dedicare del tempo alla riscoperta di valori che mi rappresentano e su cui, pietra su pietra, anche io ho edificato la mia chiesa. Un luogo intimo dell’anima che voglio condividere con Vito, un uomo fatto Santo che diede al sua vita a nome e per nome della sua fede. I wish I could possess your strength and devotion.
Today, San Vito, I pray to you.
